
The documentary on the Ottawa River Waterway is currently in editing
and
will be ready in the Spring of 2007. It is expected that on its
release that
the video will be over an hour in length, feature twenty-two communities
and covering another twelve attractions along the waterway.
Starting in Montreal and heading north to Lake Temiscaming is one
long
and very beautiful trip. Thanks to the many communities who provided
support along the way, you will see your communities capture on
video
for all to see, shortly. Provide below is the initial press release
by the people
at the Ottawa River Waterway Office who supported this project.
====press release====
The Ottawa River Waterway
Voie navigable de la rivière des Outaouais
1 Pembroke St. East, P. O. Box 277
Pembroke, Ontario K8A 6X3
Tel: (613) 735-5416 or Toll Free: 1-866-224-5244
www.ottawariverwaterway.com
PRESS RELEASE
April 15, 2005“ The Ottawa River Waterway will be on video”
PEMBROKE- April 15, 2005: The Ottawa River Waterway, operated
by the Temiskawa Waterway Corporation, is facilitating a documentary
and promotional video this summer. The intent of the production
is to
increase tourism experiences along the Ottawa River with the assistance
of all communities. Filming begins midsummer with the release of
a retail
DVD and VHS.
The video being produced by MorVision Video Productions (Ottawa)
is
actively supported by the Ottawa River Waterway. Producer, Mr. Paul
Morralee, has just completed a VHS/ DVD on the Rideau Canal waterway
system titled “Today’s Rideau”. The retail video
has subsequently been
purchased by Parks Canada as a marketing tool to promote the waterway
internationally.
“Today’s Ottawa River Waterway” will attempt to
join all communities
together from Montreal to Notre-Dame-Du-Nord at the head of Lake
Temiscaming in an informative bilingual format told by the people
who live,
work and play along the Ottawa River. The 1271 km boating journey
will
feature services, community events, festivals and historic points
of interest.
We are seeking assistance from communities, municipalities, businesses
and local inhabitants along the Ottawa River on suggestions of what
can
be taken into considerations in this video production. We are looking
for
your support! Interested in assisting or seeking additional information,
please contact the Ottawa River Waterway office at (613) 735-5416
or
1-866-224-5244.
Additional Information: Linda Sarazin
Executive Director
1-866-224-5244
========================Rough Diary =========================
Adventures of NINA
Ottawa River 2005
Diary compiled by Paul Morralee
Clearing the fleet locks of the Rideau Canal, Nina a twenty-six
foot wooden hulled boat was ready for another adventure as the lock
doors opened onto the Ottawa River. An adventure that would take
the boat and its occupants on a 1,400 km voyage from pure wilderness
to the frenetic pace of the big city.
The Ottawa River’s history as a major roadway to building
our nation while also playing a boundary between two founding provinces
marks its future. Significant in the history of our country the
Ottawa provided an artery from which to build and transform the
vast untamed interior. Abundance of clean clear water is only part
of the picture, the Ottawa River also represents a major strategical
line, separating, English and French Canada. The trees, the geography,
wildlife and geology all make up for an interesting and dynamic
investigation into the heart of our country as Nina cuts a fast
path across the river to Gatineau.
The city docks of Gatinuea, home to several tourist vessels, take
visitors on a voyage to witness the majestic curtain of water that
the Rideau Falls is renowned for. Or to see the wooded embankment
where, this year a man lost his life when his backhoe dropped over
the side of parliament hill and onto the banks of the Ottawa.
The sun already beats down on Nina’s decks as she goes under
the Champlain bridge and arrives at the Gatineau Docks where the
Ottawa River Waterway trailer and vehicle awaits. The Ottawa River
Waterway organization will play a major part in the voyage this
summer, transporting the boat from one elevation to another. Because
of dams, rapids barrages, weirs and hydro electric operations the
boat will need to be lifted seven times on the way up the river
and seven time on the way down.
From Ottawa the first destination, up the river, is Norte Dame du
Nord about six hundred kilometers north and west. Then from the
top of the navigable system back down past the capital to Montreal
another couple of hundred kilometers south and east.
As the boat approaches the dock, Sandy helps guide Nina into the
submerged trailer birth and then with hydraulic motor running, braces
underneath the vessel is secured prior to rolling the trailer out
of the water. Dripping wet, Nina is balanced on the trailer strapped
down and the contents within secured. As Nina rolls out from the
Marina she is traveling down the road no faster than sixty kilometers
an hour. She is an old antique boat and she needs a little extra
care. Wooden boats are becoming more and more infrequent with fiberglass
taking its place. As Nina takes to the streets of Gatinuea, she
slows traffic, no just behind her, but oncoming too. Wood, old,
unique and different, many people can be seen pressing their faces
to the window to take another look. One hour later we arrive at
the Aylmer Marina where Club de voile Grande-River crew awaits with
a travel lift. We are greeted with a warm smile and negotiate the
process to lift the boat from the trailer to water somewhere below.
Precariously hanging by two transport straps the boat lumbers over
the cut out dock, where with the ease of a lever Nina is lowered
four meters to the deep blue water of the Ottawa. Once the boat
is tied up, outboard motor is re-secured; the bilge checked for
leaks a moment is gained to relax in the heat of the day. Aylmer
has some nice areas to walk with a huge public beach nearby and
many restaurants and shops to visits. Later in the day Nina travels
across Britannia Bay to the Ontario side where the Yacht Club Britannia
a mecca for sailing for the last century in fact since 1887, has
maintained a presents.
There I meet a friend who does not have a boat but likes to go on
adventures. It was a hot day so the first thing we did was go for
a swim to cool off in the Ottawa. The river moves a lot of water
in fact, 600 million cubic meters per second of water at peak. What
this means in essence is the water keeps a nice cool temperature.
So while swimming, all you need to do is go a meter underwater to
cool. After the swim and a nice grilled chicken dinner, we watched
the sun go down over Constance Bay.
Next day venturing into the town, supplies were gathered and what
would become a routine, a visit to the public library. Checking
on the Internet for emails and to do a little bit of research always
helps out for the next step. A couple of days later, Nina continued
the trek up the Ottawa towards Quyon the ferry port. There are some
rolling hills on the Quebec side while Ontario remains fairly flat.
Along the way the Britainna Sailing School showed off their Tall
Ship with enthusiastic crew aboard. Rounding up to Quyon, I was
met by streams of traffic being transported across the river. At
the dock was the ubiquitous chip wagon, where I presented myself
as an expert in the field and proceeded to test out the French fries.
The Ottawa River Waterway trailer arrived for the longest haul of
the entire trip, to go from Quyon on the Quebec side to Bryson a
hundred and twenty km north. The Arnprior leg of the trip would
be realized on the way back down the river.
Arriving in Bryson a small community just upstream from the Bryson
hydroelectric plant lays a quaint community. There is a great bridge
that spans the Ottawa at this point and continues to Calumet Island,
where several rafting companies have set up home base. Slowly in
the west very dark ominous clouds assembled, followed by a rush
of boaters running from the incoming weather. Next Nina was in the
middle of a huge windstorm, with driving vertical rain, thunder
and lightning, fortunately the boat was tied to the dock. Within
twenty-five minutes all was quiet again with the occasional echo
of thunder getting ever distant.
Travelling up the river the current was a bit more and now the boat
was going around the eastern part of Calumet Island. There were
many small Quebec communities to stop in and visit on the way north.
The river is quiet narrow along this stretch and the Laurention
hills made an appearance. Fort Coulonge offers a good place to stop
with new docking to tie up to and a village that is very settled
in its ways. It was a long stretch to Chapeau my evening destination,
especially after loosing my map over the edge of the boat. I had
turned the boat around to get the map back, but unfortunately the
map was forced under by the prop wash. Talking to some local’s
they gave me some instructions as to where to go next. Although
the route is well buoyed Lake Coulonge is ten km in length and when
you are on a boat things look all the same from a distance. So I
was given simple direction, stay in the middle of the lake.
Guiding my way around a tricky course, I reached Chapeau on Allumette
Island. Allumette Island is named such because a Jesuit priest left
his, matches or Allumettes, on the island. His Allumettes were comprised
of a small box, with some flint, and some horsehair. The interesting
thing is that Allumettes mean light while the island downstream
is, Calumet meaning, pipe.
The next morning I was picked up by the Ottawa River Waterway system
and the boat was lifted and moved to the western part of the island
where Pembroke could be viewed. The city looked different from this
perspective, it was the first time I had seen the city from the
other side. After a forty-minute lift the boat was put back into
one of the longest stretches, and one of the most beautiful parts
of the Ottawa. It was warm and not much wind to speak of.
I then took Nina north and west towards Petewawa where again it
was another perspective I had not seen of the military base. Recently
because of unexploded ordinates the government has closed miles
and miles of beaches. Soon they will be reopened after the ordinates
are cleared from the area.
Locals have been visiting the beaches for years but there had been
a change in command that had forced boaters away from the area.
As I motored up the river I could not help feeling about the loss
of the beach areas. There were endless stretches of beach restricted
to the visitor. Past the Petewawa islands, past an old Hudson Bay
depot called Fort William and to Deep River Islet on a huge bend
in the river. The Laurention Mountains meet the river overshadowing
the water as the mountains raise six hundred feet in the air.
Second and third generation forest growth can be seen. These forests
once held untouched timbers so huge that greedy Europeans couldn’t
get enough of the cheap lumber. At first the lumber was sent down
in timber rafts. The timber would be squared up, set into a form
and then floated down the river. Where obstacles were too great
the rafts were disbanded and then reattached. In once case, in Ottawa
a special sluice was constructed for the timber rafts to be floated.
There is no indigenous, or original forest left in the Ottawa Valley,
in fact the only place where there is a first generation forest
is around the homestead of a lumber baron in Arnprior. There are
many large pines, and if you go to the graveyard there are some
massive trees supporting the history of what was taken in the area.
Turning the corner at Deep River Islet the river straightens up
and heads past Oiseau Rock, Pointe au Bapteme, Chalk River Nuclear
Laboratories and Deep River. The river here is beautiful for the
fact that Ontario and Quebec Hydro dams have not caused a dramatic
water level increase causing shoreline erosion which has occurred
on other parts of the river.
After traveling another forty km Nina meets up with the Ottawa River
Waterway crew to lift the boat out at the Swisha. There the crew
takes the boat around the Dam to put her into lake Holden, a huge
reservoir that stretches for many miles. From this point it is mostly
wilderness, the Laurention Mountains stay close to the river, while
the Transcanada highway can be seen taking the eastern bank towards
Mattawa. The occasional train makes its way along the tracks, but
its all freight trains and no VIA Rail can be seen sharing the beautiful
view.
Overnight Nina is tucked into the Dumoine River where it is quiet
and out of the way. It is a beautiful location with the sun going
down on one side of the river and on the other side the moon coming
up.
In the morning after chatting with some canoe adventures I venture
north to Mattawa. Mattawa is at an important junction in the history
of the area and the river. The community is at the place where voyageurs
would make a left it they were heading out west to Lake Superior,
or continue going north if they were going to Hudson Bay, or travel
south to Montreal and Quebec City. On the hill overlooking the community
there are three crosses that indicate that this is a junction of
some importance. Put there hundreds of years ago, the community
still ensures that the site is well maintained.
On exploration point situated at the confluence of the Ottawa and
the Mattawa I attend the unveiling of a local legend, Joe Mufferaw,
carved from many pieces of timber. This carving was completed after
some hardship as the main caver, whose 25 pieces of work can be
seen around the community died. The reins were passed onto others
to complete the work. When the art was unveiled this signaled the
beginning of the Voyageur Days, a three-day festival of music, art,
food and competition. It was a fun time to be on the dock with other
boaters, many who I would later meet on my journey up and down the
river.
Leaving Mattawa there was an hour-long voyage towards the Mattawa
Dam where the boat was then again lifted out of the water by the
ORW people and placed at the head of the dam an hour later. The
ramp down into the water was very steep and the fellows had to be
careful because later in the year they would have the trailer slip
off the ramp and into deep water, fortunately everything was fine.
Again there was wilderness, and quiet still waters to enjoy. Stopping
along the way, many waterfall flows into the river. The catchments
area of the Ottawa River is 140,000 square km. Where there is a
river flowing in, you will often find fisherman trying their luck
at hooking the big one.
Further up the river you enter a place where there is no help for
fifty kilometers in either direction, no fuel, no service, nothing
but wildlife.
The river still gives up some of its old cargo, dead headed logs
drift towards the surface sometimes being hit by boaters. While
most are tagged or dragged out of harms way, they still pose a problem
and considering the restrictions because of environmental concerns
many are just left there. In Quebec the feeling is, get them out.
In Ontario they keep them in, because they are good for fish habitat.
Some companies still work to rescue logs from the bottom, but as
time marches on, less and less are being found.
The town of Temiscaming is the next stop; also known for being the
Garden City. Many years ago around 1930 the community was built,
as many are in a planned way. The architect decided to build the
community as a city of gardens. In many of the public spaces, there
are gardens and fountains. Later when my camera assistant would
join me and we would spend a couple of days exploring the community.
It was a nice place to relax and see how people lived.
The final lift up into Lake Temiscaming was very simple; the elevation
was only a few meters and was accomplished fairly quickly. After
finishing my visit to Temiscaming I ventured north to New Liscard
in an attempt to catch up to my camera assistant Hayden, who is
a native of Switzerland. When his bus arrived we were happy to meet
up again as we had know each other for a couple of months in Thunder
Bay. We had a celebration dinner aboard Nina, which was comprised
of gilled chicken with fresh vegetables and a bottle of red wine.
From the celebrative night we moved to our first destination in
the filming of twenty-five communities, Notre Dame Du Nord. The
community had been turned into a big beer garden and the entertainment
was just as big. The truck rodeo is the talk of the town, when sixty
thousand people join in to watch transport trucks race up hill.
There is lots of exhaust dust and spilt beer but the fun continues
for three days. We went to film and visit the fossil exhibit and
to explore some of the static displays of the newest and the best
in the trucking world. There was a lot of excitement for the northerners
to see and was a great destination for activity. Next we ventured
to a small cove to watch the stars at night and then onto Haileybury.
This community was filled with interesting stories and history of
the great fire that happened in 1922, when most of the town was
wiped out and most people spent the night in the water staying away
from the heat. Today Haileybury boasts being the home for one of
the Hardy Boys authors and features many local attractions that
appear in the children’s novel series.
Heading south for the first time in three weeks the journey continues
to take us on Lake Temiscaming, a lake that is 121 km in length
and in some places twenty km wide. This is also home to a tragedy
of inexperienced school children on a canoe trip that were trapped
by high cliffs and winds and were swamped by the waves. In all twelve
were drowned along with a teacher, and added another chapter to
lake Temiscaming in 1978.
As you head south the lake gets thinner but just before it does
you come to Ville Marie, the original name for Montreal in fact.
The community is situated on the high bank and escarpment and was
founded by Farther Moffat who beyond his heavenly duties also dabbled
in economics and community planning. His efforts made the community
today prosperous for its strong farming community, and high street
shopping. The community has one of the nicest marina facilities
along the entire Ottawa River.
Just south of Ville Marie we come to Fort Temiscaming, located
on the Quebec side and mostly a re-enactment of the Fort that used
to be there. When it came time to film the site we asked if we could
have a flag to fly over the fort. There was some confusion as to
which flag should be flown. French, English, Hudson Bay, or the
Canadian Flag. After taking off my shoelace we hosted the Hudson
Bay Company’s Flag and waited for the right gust of wind to
carry the flag. Down below and near the site a cedar grove of trees,
bent and twisted by some force of nature can be found. They are
unsure as to why the trees are twisted but many venture to take
a look.
Next stop Camp Opemica. Camp Opemica, again situated on the Quebec
side of the waterway used to be used as a logging camp. Situated
on the shore are many vacant building used to repair the lumber
trucks, skidders, boats and cranes. There was another fort situated
here, and held again by the Hudson Bay Company. The area is very
pretty with high cliffs, vast woodlands, second and third generation
forest and a small cottage community.
The lake turns a little to the south and west a bit for the final
leg to the community of Temiscaming. Again the ORW people greeted
us and lifted us up and then placed us down river of the weir. We
then continue our trek south past Mattawa for a rendezvous with
the Oiseau Rock Power Squadron’s annual corn roast and picnic.
This was followed by a ride in one of the countries most famous
beaver aircraft. We flew over the Laurention Mountains and viewed
the river below, stretching out for mile and miles north and south.
Our main objective was to capture on tape the majestic Oiseau Rock
that towers some six hundred feet out of the water and into the
sky. The aircraft is famous for the fact that it has been incorporated
into the1999 series of Canadian quarters. Lucky toss I thought.
After visiting the sandy beaches of Fort William we departed for
Pembroke for a couple of days to see the old lumber town. The community
has faired well with its waterfront after years of redevelopment.
There are ample spots for people to venture along the water and
to sit and watch the boats go by. We managed to check into on of
the famous chip wagons before heading for Desijardinsville on the
Quebec side to be lifted out and put in at Chapeau.
Past Chapeau the river runs with a current of about 1.5 knots enough
to note the difference. We managed to make good time to Bryson before
being put into the Arnprior leg that was missed on the way up. Again
we were met with great weather and wonderful scenery. There was
a special beach we stopped at, like a sliver of sand with a great
pine tree where we met another boater. It was fun to just drive
the boat up on the beach and not worry about it while we took some
nice shots of the water and a family bathing.
Once we got to Arnprior we stopped in to see the original forest
and lumber baron’s mansions on the hill and then took a break
for a day when my brother and his fiancé came to pick us
up for a visit to Ottawa. On our return to Ottawa a week later,
we took a quick hop up the Rideau Canal to watch the Rolling Stones
perform, from atop the boat, it was an amazing concert!
Further down the river we went to another attraction, Montebello
a resort for the rich and famous and the second spot we encountered
rain in the whole trip. Montebello touts itself as being the biggest
log structure in the world. Built in the early 1900 the facility
has played host to the G-7 in 1981 where Thatcher, Reagan and Trudeau
all came together, we had a hot tin of beans while suffering the
effects of the tail end of a hurricane but we were happy.
Finally our push to the south and Montreal commenced in a two-day
trip along some rambling farmland, marshes and flooded land. We
came to Carrion a huge hydraulic lift and were gently passed downstream
to our final destination the Port of Montreal. When we traveled
the Lachine canal we were struck as to how much of the city was
included in the waterway. And how the culture and the canal seemed
to merge and intertwined. We stopped at the Attwater Market for
a walk and then finally to the Port of Montreal after passing six
locks. Nina was up against some huge ships in the port, and we managed
to view the marina and some interesting tourist attractions.
The Rainbow Warrior was there from Greenpeace giving public tours.
The ship was filled with enthusiastic volunteers eager to show us
around.
This was the end of an incredible journey, almost 1,400 km in length
and taking over two months to complete. The flavour and history
of the trip left in some cases more questions than answers. And
to wonder why such a river never really became the grand route into
the interior that was once expected. And also why the waterway continues
to loose ground and interest in the boating publics eye. This river
is an amazing resource to visitors and locals alike. It is like
the best-kept secret, waiting for anyone who has the energy and
time to uncover the mystery of the depth of the Ottawa River.
For me it was an opportunity to see the river in context. The context
of how large it is, to the difference societies on each side of
the river and of course to the incredible beauty and seemingly untouched
vistas that have remained since the beginning of time.
The Ottawa for me will always be remembered for the incredible size
and scope that the river offers. In the next months I will try to
assemble many hours of television footage and reams of paper into
a story of discovery into the past and future of this great river,
stay tuned! (December 2005)
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